Lieutenant Colonel J O M Roberts (1916–1997) was a embellished British Military officer, who joined the navy in India so he may climb mountains. He lived in Nepal from 1958 until his demise in 1997. He is named the ‘father of trekking’ having arrange Nepal’s first trekking company, Mountain Journey.
He maintained an aviary in Pokhara, a spot he selected to reside as a result of he stated “there is no such thing as a different mountain view on the earth to equal Machapuchare and Annapurna hanging there within the sky above the inexperienced Pokhara plain”.
Nepali Instances brings you elements of a weblog he wrote in 1997 known as ‘The Himalayan Odyssey’ on the Mountain Journey Nepal web site simply earlier than he died on 1 November 1997 in Pokhara.
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I’ve grown up (I refuse completely to jot down “grown outdated”) with trendy Himalayan mountaineering and I’ve watched and pioneered mountaineering and trekking in Nepal actually from the start.
I’ll maybe be forgiven if private opinions and typically seemingly unessential private collections are likely to intrude unduly – no less than they could enliven my story. For though the historical past of current Himalayan mountaineering could also be attention-grabbing, it’s not notably amusing.
I got here out to India and joined the outdated British Indian Military on the finish of 1936. I joined the military partly as a result of I as unqualified for any extra mental employment, however primarily as a result of I needed to climb within the Himalaya – not only one expedition, however an entire lifetime of mountaineering and exploration. It labored. And even when the best locations have been to be denied to me, I’ve no regrets. Destiny dealt me quite a lot of good playing cards and if I didn’t at all times play them correctly, that was my fault.
At the moment the entire of the Himalaya Karakoram lay open like an enormous and engaging guide. Typically talking, both permits weren’t wanted, or may very well be obtained simply sufficient. The height top report stood at 25,600ft (Nanda Devi), not a single mountain over 26,000ft had been climbed. Entry into Tibet was attended by mere formality, however was not too tough if one may produce bonafide scientific or gathering goals. Bhutan was the identical however at the moment, for a mountaineer no less than, the lure was much more potent than Tibet or Bhutan. And within the mountain guide solely the chapter titled ‘Nepal’ remained closed, the pages uncut.
Closed off Nepal
Till about 1948, visits to Kathmandu have been by invitation solely, both from the Rana rulers or the British Embassy. The remainder of the Kingdom was firmly closed to foreigners, an exception being made within the case of glaciers west and south of Kangchenjunga, to which entry was permitted in particular circumstances by the use of a excessive move in north Sikkim.
Now it’s unusual to assume that then, to many, Pokhara exerted a higher fascination than Lhasa, and was definitely much less recognized. Fourteen years have been to move earlier than I set foot in Nepal myself and this lengthy wait, and the magical photos conjured up in the course of the ready years, should account for the truth that I’ve by no means fairly misplaced my very own sense of surprise and privilege of being allowed inside Nepal in any respect.
I attempt to keep in mind that others might have a unique angle, besides I really feel my face starting to flush when individuals argue that they need to be allowed to enter sure border areas, restricted by the federal government for safety causes.
Till the struggle started on the finish of 1939, probably three of 4 expeditions used to return out from Europe or America annually. For the remaining right here have been in India (together with, after all, the nations we now name Pakistan and Bangladesh) a whole bunch of military officers and civilian authorities officers and enterprise individuals, principally British and, of those a substantial quantity would take their summer season holidays within the hills.
Within the Indian Military we have been allowed two or three months native depart annually, and 9 months depart each three years. Annual depart was privilege and never a proper and may very well be withheld or diminished by one’s commanding officer. It trusted what one meant to do. The social life or ‘poodle faking’ (mendacity round on houseboats, I’m unsure of the derivation of the crew) was frowned on however a request to maintain a date with a rifle with some unlucky wild sheep or goat on a excessive move in Central Asia was a sure passport to go away, so was an utility to climb a mountain, though there have been few individuals in entire of India at the moment who aspired to actual climbing, as in comparison with trekking and extra normal exploration.
In the meantime, our bold younger mountaineer was getting rapidly into his stride. His mountain scheming had prolonged past the mere Indian Military and he had managed to insinuate himself right into a Gurkha Regiment with headquarters at 6,000ft on the flanks of the Pir Panjal vary (Dharmsala, within the state of what’s now Himachal Pradesh). So in 1937 I used to be in a position to climb for a complete about three weeks among the many granite peaks of the Dhaula Dhar, in 1938 I joined an expedition making an attempt Masherbrum within the Karakoram.
There have been 5 of us within the occasion, plus 4 Sherpas and we would have liked 60 porters to hold all our masses. That 12 months there was additionally one other British try on Everest from the north, a German expedition led by Paul Bauer to Nanga Parbat, and an American expedition to K2. There was some pleasant rivalry with the Individuals with whom we shared a part of the path, however by no means really met. A report that the whole crew had been seen (Houston and Bates have been two of them) squatting in a row cooling their blistered ft within the waters of the Indus was acquired with satisfaction.
For 20 years outdated, Masherbrum was a quite shattering expertise. I acclimatised very slowly, was frostbitten, couldn’t sleep (oh, these endless hours of strolling nightmare) and it by no means appeared to cease snowing. Lastly two of our mates have been very severely frostbitten in a summit try and I watched their toes wither and blacken and fingers drop off, actually as I helped the physician with their dressings. Subsequent 12 months, I felt, it must be these sheep and goats.
Nonetheless, by the point I reached Srinagar I had perked up a bit of studying a newspaper report that they’d failed on Everest, however would possibly return within the autumn. I wrote to Tilman, the chief, giving him the welcome information that I’d be accessible to affix them of their second try. Someday later I acquired a terse reply, written from the Planters Membership, Darjeeling. There was to be no autumn try, and in any case I’d not have been needed.
In 1939, I spent two months climbing in Kulu and Spiti with three riflemen from my Gurkha Regiment, however in the meantime a brand new mild has risen on the horizon.
A brand new expedition to climb Everest from Tibet was being organised for the autumn of 1940, and following Masherbrum. I used to be requested to affix. Largely it was a brand new crew to interchange those that had spent the final six years trudging to and from Darjeeling and the Rongbuk Glacier. A Captain Hunt was one other of the members. It was an alluring prospect: simply the fitting age and, first, residence depart and three months getting match within the Alps. I don’t remorse the struggle however want they may have put it off for a few years.
The struggle gave me expertise of parachuting and command of the primary operational drop of the struggle in South East Asia Dispirited after failures within the mountains. I nonetheless typically return again to unsure glow of that small and never very harmful parachute operation into North Burma in 1942.
The boredom, the sheer and utter distress of struggle and the few moments of reality which make it typically appear worthwhile examine very intently with excessive angle climbing. I really feel nice admiration for the younger males who voluntarily, with none clarion name from king and Nation, endure related miseries on excessive and steep mountain faces. Possibly it’s not fairly as harmful as struggle, and perhaps tv offers the decision, however by no means thoughts, I love them.
In case you’re nonetheless with me, I’ll skip three expeditions, together with a daring try on Kangchenjunga in the course of the struggle years which reached 20,000ft leaving solely the higher 8,000ft of the nice mountain unclimbed, and proceed to 1949, and the start of the opening of the pages of chapter titled ‘Nepal’ in our guide of the mountains.
Lastly, Nepal
That 12 months, the Himalayan Committee of the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Membership utilized to the Nepal Authorities for Everest. This was refused, however Tilman and Peter Lloyd have been permitted to go to Langtang Valley, north of Kathmandu. As soon as once more, I wrote to Invoice Tilman. Identical outcome as in 1938. However in 1950 the Committee acquired permission to ship an expedition to Annapurna, and on the identical time the French have been permitted to aim Dhaulagiri. Now, it was Tilman’s flip to jot down to me.
There have been 4 of us climbers along with our chief who was 20 years older and by far the strongest and fittest. It was an in poor health–organised and badly led expedition, which made its Base Camp above the Manang Valley the day the monsoon started after which failed to achieve even the summit of lowly Annapurna IV. Personally I used to be relieved when superficially frostbitten ft put an finish to my very own climbing and I used to be in a position to spend the remainder of the monsoon exploring the Manangbhot and Bhimtakothi valleys and gathering birds for the British Museum.
On the finish, too, got here a particular reward after I walked throughout with one Sherpa to Pokhara and entered my non-public Mecca. Poor Pokhara has taken a little bit of hammering within the 43 years which have handed, however I’ve not modified the opinion I fashioned then, there is no such thing as a different mountain view on the earth to equal Machapuchare and Annapurna hanging there within the sky above the inexperienced Pokhara plain.
In the meantime Herzog and the French had failed on Dhaulagiri however climbed ‘our’ Annapurna. It was the primary 8,000m peak to be climbed and the next flag waving and publicity have been a curtain–raiser to even higher occasions in 1953 and the much more vigorous waving of flags.
I went to Everest that 12 months myself, solely as a kind of poor relation, a purveyor of oxygen masses. Nonetheless, I used to be glad to go in any capability and, though not notably beneficiant by nature, I’ve by no means questioned the equity of the number of the crew. Success was nevertheless certainly not sure and I knew that within the occasion of failure there can be one other try after the monsoon. It appeared cheap to suppose that some members could be killed, frostbitten or no less than change into drained and that replacements can be wanted within the fall.
So dumping my oxygen masses at Base Camp I went off to show myself, made the primary exploration of the Lumding, Inuku and Hongu valleys, the primary ascent of Mera and a south–to-north crossing of Amphu Lapcha move in basketball boots – two firsts in a single. Alas, all to no avail. Hastening again to my Regiment in Malaya, I heard the information one scorching night time in June from Indian policemen who have been looking my rucksack in Jainagar on the Nepal border. And I rejoiced with the remainder of the world.
Nepal mountaineering
A wind blows throughout the best mountains of Asia and rattles the tiles of the roofs of the homes within the valleys beneath. Doorways swing open and others slam shut. This, too, is a land of uneasy frontiers and political winds blow throughout the frontiers and open and shut doorways.
Now, Nepal started to open the doorways of her mountains to foreigners, whereas these in different elements of the Himalayas started to shut. Tibet grew to become the primary to be tough to entry, and shortly not possible. Relations between India and China grew to become strained, and eventually reached the breaking level of struggle in 1962.
India and Pakistan fought in Kashmir. Throughout these years, which continued in impact till the early 1970’s Pakistan typically permitted the entry of some expeditions to such mountain as Nanga Parbat. However other than Nepal, the rest of the Himalayan Vary from Bhutan to Kashmir, remained firmly closed to international expeditions. Nepal closed her personal mountain for 3 years from 1966 to 1968 in sympathy with trans–Himalayan tensions prevailing on the time.
The years from 1950 to 1965 have been the golden age of climbing and exploration in Nepal. Permits have been after all required, however there have been no restrictions, as after 1969, on particulars peaks, which could or may not be tried. Many of the highest peaks have been climbed throughout these years however but there have been by no means too many expeditions within the subject at one time.
Typically talking, the expeditions have been no too massive and publicity and ballyhoo remained at a low degree. After 1969 the flood gates opened, though the Japanese expeditions devalued Nepal mountaineering for a time to the standing of a soccer league. In 1976, the doorways of India and Pakistan eased open as soon as once more (primarily for financial causes) and we now have a state of affairs, not so totally different to that I’ve described 43 years in the past, plus the bonus of Nepal. Nonetheless, the allow system is now far stricter and extra sophisticated.
After 1953 I continued to return to Nepal from military providers in Malaya nearly yearly, to the detriment of my navy profession. In 1954 I climbed Putha Hiunchuli (23,800 ft) with one Sherpa and this stays my humble private top report.
Machapuchare adopted in 1957, Noyce and Cox reaching a degree about 50 meters beneath the north summit within the latter 12 months. In 1960 Annapurna II was the final 26,000 footer to fall, Grant, Bonington and Ang Nima being the summit trio. In 1962 and 1965 I scraped across the flanks of Dhaulagiri VI, mistaking it for Dhaulagiri IV.
Like Machapuchare, ‘D4’ was an outdated ambition however proved much more tough to know than the proverbial Fish Tail itself. In the meantime, in 1958, destiny dealt me another card, an ace this time, and this provides me the chance regularly to modify the theme of my story from expeditionary mountaineering to trekking and the origins of Mountain Journey.
In the direction of the top of 1958 I used to be appointed to the newly created publish of Army Attaché on the British Embassy in Kathmandu, and I’ve lived in Nepal ever since. In these days the Embassy staffs was very small and so, at first, it was paradoxically tougher to get away than it had been earlier than.
Nonetheless any further I used to be on the centre of the Nepalese mountain scene, and the 1960 expedition to Annapurna II was fitted into this era. The appointment was for 3 years and quite weakly I managed to have this prolonged by one other two, I say ‘weakly’ as I had already determined to retire from the military and to dedicate myself full time to mountains.
Now I used to be merely choosing one other two years of safety and good military pay. However once more destiny intervened and this time dealt me a joker within the form of an Military Brigadier (we don’t name them Generals within the British Military) who turned up in Kathmandu on depart. Sadly (luckily) I took a dislike to his face and was unwise (smart) sufficient to inform him so quite late one night time within the Yak & Yeti bar within the Royal Lodge. Quite unfairly – for he had no official standing in Nepal – he later reported me for “insulting” him. No, I used to be not court docket–martialled or sacked, however the two 12 months Embassy extension was cancelled and I took the trace and retired voluntarily.
On the identical time I additionally did two different issues. I wrote to Norman Dyhrenfurth and volunteered my service for the American Mount Everest Expedition deliberate for 1963. And I went to see my good friend the Director of Tourism and mentioned some concepts with him.
I shall at all times be grateful to Norman for permitting me to affix A.M.E.E.1963. It gave me each quick object to work for and, afterwards a way of partnership in most likely probably the most excellent feat but carried out on Everest barring the primary ascent. I refer, after all, to the Unsoeld/Hornbein climb of the West Trip and subsequent traverse of the mountain though I’d accord nearly equal honour to the diminutive Japanese housewife Junko Tabei who later reached the summit with a single Sherpa companion in 1975.
In 1971, and once more in 1972, I returned to Everest in a extra exalted capability than the ‘transportation officer’ of 1963. Nonetheless, a incapacity now prevented me from going past base camp, and that’s no place for a pacesetter or his deputy to stay.
The Worldwide Expedition of 1971 might be remembered primarily for the walkout of the 4 so-called ‘Latins’. I protest in opposition to concentrating all our efforts on a South West face climb. Actually, the seeds of failure had already been sown when a spell of appalling climate adopted the fairly pointless demise of a well-loved Indian member.
The expedition was if something strengthened by the departure of the dissidents (three of whom have been in any case most likely considerably too aged for very excessive altitude work) solely to be decimated by an outbreak of apparently infectious fever. Regardless of all this, we didn’t do too badly and my essential remorse was the lack of a infantile and harmless private perception that mountaineers of a sure calibre and status should even be gents (to make use of an outmoded expression).
After the expedition had failed the mutual private abuse and accusation which broke out amongst a number of the members (and never solely the Latins) was fairly extraordinary and continued for over two years. On the identical time, inspired by the press, some usually properly revered on-looking Himalayan pundits have been unable to withstand the heady satisfaction of getting a private reduce on the expedition corpse. Nonetheless, to return now to extra nice and necessary issues.
Trekking in Nepal
After A.M.E.E. 1963 I made a decision to stay in Nepal and create my very own technique of employment there. The sphere of ‘mountains’ clearly recommended itself – certainly I had few different {qualifications}. However inside that subject my credentials have been good – lengthy standing information of the nation, the individuals and their language, and extra lately some familiarity with official circles within the capital.
I believed again to earlier days in Kashmir, and brokers who used to assist organise the forays of my sheep searching mates, offering all camp gear, employees, porters, and meals for an agreed day by day price. Nonetheless, their strategies and gear have been heavy and quaint – military tents, sheets and blankets, camp cots and camp furnishings, and china cups and plates. There was additionally the consideration that these brokers catered principally for seasoned travellers who spoke the native language and who remained in full management of their caravans.
At this stage I ought to point out the phrases trek and trekking and so on, which are actually very generally used and understood however have been novel to some in 1964 I believe. The derivation is type an outdated Boer phrase however the phrases have been so usually utilized in Himalayan literature in reference to mountain tenting and journey and so forth that I by no means had any doubt that the beast forming in my thoughts can be known as a Trekking Company.
It will be based mostly on what I had already seen in Kashmir, however streamlined and modified by classes learnt in expeditionary mountaineering. And because the shoppers or trekkers wouldn’t be skilled in Nepal circumstances, we must preserve a higher diploma of management, which might necessitate a excessive commonplace of trekking employees and their coaching.
Beginnings have been modest. I keep in mind sketching out a plan to offer for at least 8 trekkers within the subject at anyone time. I’d have 8 pads, 8 this and eight that. I wrote down 8 tents, scratched out the 8 and wrote 4. “Let ’em share,” I stated to myself. I positioned a small however costly commercial in Vacation Journal which produced 5 replies, two clearly from curious youngsters.
One girl wrote ‘Mount Everest… right here we go once more get out the Entero-Vioform… Rush me particulars.’ With greenback indicators beckoning at me, I duly rushed. However alas, silence prevailed. Maybe she couldn’t learn my writing – Mountain Journey owned no typewriter in these days. By now, in direction of the top of 1964 it was nevertheless registered with the federal government as the primary trekking company in Nepal, and it was to stay the one one for the following 4 years.
My first shoppers got here to do an Everest trek within the early spring of 1965. There as a narrative in circulation a 12 months or two later that these have been ‘’three American grandmothers’, and a extra sporting trio of enthusiastic and appreciative girls I’ve by no means since dealt with.
Even by 1966 the times of the 8 units of kit have been long gone and I quickly needed to start contemplating the issue of “how large”? In an effort to protect the unique high quality of the mountain expertise I questioned if I mustn’t flip individuals away. However the demand grew and grew, and now there have been different Brokers coming into the sphere.
Turning individuals away wouldn’t cut back the numbers coming to trek, so it appeared higher to develop and no less than try to make sure that the great title created for trekking in Nepal didn’t endure. With growth there was the hazard of dropping the non-public contact which is important in an operation of this type. Nonetheless, by choice, by coaching, by instance and affect, and the delegation of duty, it might change into attainable for a particular spirit to permeate an organisation, right down to the humblest Sherpa ‘Kitchen Boy’. This I hope we might have achieved in Mountain Journey.
There was, too, the query of method, of what we have been making an attempt to realize, to goal behind the best way a trek was carried out. Said merely, I’d say we are attempting to indicate you the mountains of Nepal, its valleys and villages and folks, underneath the very best circumstances, however with out shielding you from actuality.
One hears criticism of teams who trek by Nepal remoted from the individuals and nation by their very own entourage and disinterest. That isn’t, I hope, our means of operating a trek. Quite we try to provide you with all of the elements of enjoyment, with Sherpas who take care of you however don’t intrude. The ultimate, whole expertise stays yours to create, and to take pleasure in to full with out organisational worries or distractions.
I’ve tried, considerably awkwardly I concern, to precise one thing of the philosophy which lies behind the title Mountain Journey, as I really feel that this needs to be shared with those that come to trek with us in Nepal. Now I have to say one thing about our Sherpas as that is fairly a particular relationship. We have now all heard that the Sherpas are splendid fellows. And we have now heard that they’ve been ‘spoilt’ (by expeditions, trekking, tourism or training – take your selection).
In all probability the reality lies someplace in between. As in any group, there are ‘dangerous’ ones, and the wages and different rewards now grew to become customary for mountaineering and trekking work are excessive by Nepal requirements. Nonetheless, the great ones – there are a lot of – are excellent certainly and reply their wages many instances over with prepared work, loyalty and comradeship.
On an expedition or a trek, they served fantastically however with none hint of servility. Sherpas give trekking brokers in Nepal a most unfair benefit over their counterparts in different elements of the Himalaya. I can’t cover the reality – I really like them. And at instances they drive me stark, raving mad.
The 12 months 1966, when Mountain Journey was starting to present a good quantity of employment to Sherpas, additionally marked the top of mountaineering expedition exercise for 3 years. Khumbu was already affected by the financial results of the close to closure of the as soon as worthwhile commerce with Tibet, and this new supply of employment, then and swelling steadily in coming years, was a godsend to Sherpa individuals.
Now it’s all taken as a right and tends to price much less honourably than the help (hospitals, faculties and bridges) given to the Sherpa group by an out of doors supply. Nonetheless, somebody needed to begin all of it – and what trekking gave the sooner years haven’t been forgotten within the villages, which lies on the foot of Mt Everest.
What of the longer term? The expansion of wilderness journey in Nepal in the course of the previous years has been phenomenal. The international trade earnings from trekking have been appreciable and extra necessary, transformed into rupees these earnings – within the type of Sherpas’ and pay, meals purchases and so forth – have reached individuals in distant mountain areas, not only a few pockets in Kathmandu. The services which have been developed in Nepal have enabled individuals, who by no means dreamt that it will be attainable, to take pleasure in an expeditionary kind vacation within the Himalayas.
India and Pakistan haven’t been gradual to understand the financial benefit of thus utilising their very own Himalayan belongings, and have opened hitherto restricted space to foreigners, even supposing the safety state of affairs in these areas has not materially modified. On the debit aspect, in Nepal we hear of soiled camp websites and trails suffering from garbage (the legacy of mountaineering expeditions as a lot as trekkers) and crowds of hikers invading the peace of the mountain. The now widespread realisation that the primary drawback does actually exist, quantities no less than to a partial answer.
Thanks for following my quite lengthy and rambling story to this point. My time, certainly my life, has been mountain journey within the Himalayas in all its points. Wherever you may your self comply with, in Nepal or elsewhere, you’ll not be disillusioned.
Postscript
The textual content above was written as much as 1987, when about 40,000 trekking permits have been issued. 5 years later, the newest figures accessible, being for 1992, 71,439 have been issued. That’s about 20% of the guests whole for that 12 months, however trekkers spend significantly longer in Nepal than regular guests, so the earnings from trekking and mountaineering most likely accounts for no less than half of the grand yearly whole of international trade by tourism.
The years since 1965 have been one thing of a hit story for this side of tourism in Nepal, which has unfold to the remainder of the world. Nepal didn’t invent inns or aeroplanes however it did invent trekking tourism as we all know it at the moment. Even in its now considerably degraded type it has introduced advantages to many sections of the group and to the nationwide financial system, and it has enabled hundreds of international customer to discover the extra inaccessible elements of this stunning Kingdom. However regardless of the statistics, the trade will not be all that wholesome – for for much longer than these final 5 years we have now been engaged in strangling the goose, golden eggs and all.
In 1992, of then whole 71,439 trekkers, 40,808 made their very own non-public preparations not using one of many official trekking companies. This suggests they lived comparatively cheaply in shanty like ‘tea homes’, which are sometimes unsanitary and allowed to spring up, unchecked, on former magnificence spots. And so the paths develop over-crowed and soiled and even correctly organised teams say “Nepal is completed”.
This example is very acute on the extra well-liked routes of the Annapurna area which performed host to 60% of the general trekking whole in 1992, the bulk being do-it-yourself trekkers. One can’t blame the latter for doing what they want to do, however the bother is that they’re spoiling the expertise, and the nation, for others and contributing comparatively little to the nationwide financial system.
There are actually over 200 trekking brokers formally authorised in Nepal and it’s uncertain greater than 100 of those make a correct dwelling from their companies. Small surprise than that some companies might try to steadiness their accounts by petty dishonesties. Similar to underpaying their load carrying porters. This specific topic has lately roused the anger of a well known British mountaineer, himself now within the enterprise.
The fault actually lies with the employer, who mustn’t fall for the bottom supply, and the truth that an Company bears the nametag of a “Cooperative” carries no particular assure of superior providers.
4 August 1997
© Colonel JOM Roberts, Mountain Journey Nepal
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