In 2020, we must always have celebrated the seventieth anniversary of India-China’s diplomatic relations, as a substitute it will likely be remembered for the skirmishes within the Himalayas. Although bilateral ties have been overshadowed by the disaster, there’s a entire new world to discover so far as China is worried, and Shivaji Das takes readers on a journey to the western Sichuan area and the Tibetan highlands in his travelogue, The ‘Different’ Shangri La.

Like a dream

It’s a fascinating account of the unimaginable magnificence and tradition of the area the place the Tibetan plateau merges into China and in addition the myths and legends of Tibet. The creator takes the reader right into a dream-like tour of Tibet’s magical mountain peaks and the great thing about its individuals. He blends easy historical past, well-known anecdotes and private expertise to convey to life Tibet in addition to Tibetan-Chinese language each day exchanges to the reader with out over burdening it with politics.

Das describes Tibet’s famed monasteries and their legends. At Chonggu Gompa, also referred to as ‘Bandit Monastery’, he and his spouse meet a gaggle of monks who’re sunbathing, dropping no trace of a boisterous previous. The monastery has a status of being an abode of infamous criminals who regardless of being career-monks terrorised neighbouring areas. It’s now recognized for ‘miracles’ and “generally the face of Manjushri, the bodhisattva of nice knowledge, all of the sudden seems in these mountains.”

Equally fascinating is the introduction to Tibet’s well-known peaks like Jambeyang which at 5,958 metres is likely one of the tallest peaks on the earth. However it’s the look of the mountain that the creator presents in an evocative method — “A pointy pointed magnificence, wanting like a magician’s wand hidden behind a white handkerchief.”

Then and now

Writings on Tibet and western Sichuan are uncommon and the final time we learn such an evocative narrative was maybe Vikram Seth’s From Heaven Lake (1983) the place he launched the pure splendour of Tibet in addition to the bureaucratic equipment of China. The guide by Das is a better learn as compared which exhibits that regardless of the many years in between, the other-worldly great thing about Tibet stays unspoilt.

Nonetheless, there are vital variations between then and now. In Das’s narrative, Tibet is infrastructurally higher positioned. He writes about his go to to Daocheng which at 4,411 metres is likely one of the highest airports on the earth. The airport is used for quicker journey to Sichuan which is well-known for its delicacies everywhere in the world.

The accounts of Sichuan are totally different from Tibet however present the connection between mainland China and the Tibetan Autonomous Area. Whereas Sichuan is brimming with its spice and western affect, Tibet has performed a key position in drawing tourism to the area as showcased by the huge presence of the well-known caterpillar fungus in airport outlets that are consumed in nice amount nowadays throughout China.

The part on Sertar in Tibet, one of many biggest and surreal cities recognized for the observe of Tibetan Buddhism, is maybe the excessive level of the guide. The creator and his Singapore-based Chinese language spouse, Lobo, additionally skilled the playful facet of the inhabitants. One night, a bunch of younger Tibetans, who had had an excessive amount of to drink, noticed the creator and “pounced” on him — all for {a photograph} with an Indian. Lobo was briefly nervous.

The guide reminds us that people-to-people exchanges can nonetheless salvage relations between the 2 Asian giants.

The ‘Different’ Shangri-La; Shivaji Das, Konark Publishers, ₹299.

kallol.b@thehindu.co.in