Revealed On Sep 17, 2021 04:03:00 PM
Two weeks and over 2,500km within the mountains is a grueling take a look at of man and machine. We take you on an epic journey astride the KTM 390 Journey.
It began with a cellphone name. “I’ve bought excellent news for you. You’re going to Ladakh with KTM,” mentioned Rishaad. Though I’ve been fortunate to have visited Ladakh prior to now, this is able to be my first time on a motorbike. To say that I used to be leaping with pleasure could be placing it calmly. However then got here the caveat, “There’ll be plenty of off-road sections and I need you to learn to get comfy on an journey motorbike by way of such terrain,’’ he added. I all of the sudden thought-about backing out, however hesitantly agreed and hung up the cellphone.
You see, I’ve at all times been a tarmac-bred rider and I don’t get pleasure from driving off-road. Therefore, whereas part of me was elated in regards to the journey, the worry of crashing the KTM 390 Journey had me in its grip. Did I simply join an insurmountable problem?
START SEQUENCE
The query lingered in my thoughts as I landed in Chandigarh and bought the keys to a spanking new KTM 390 Journey on the lodge. I used to be surrounded by a motley bunch of KTM 390 Journey house owners, most of whom had ridden down from numerous corners of the nation. Kedar Deo, from Pune, was the odd man out; the one one on a KTM 250 Journey. Representing our neighbours have been Bijay Moktan, the final supervisor of KTM Nepal and two of his clients, all of whom made it to Chandigarh from Kathmandu on their respective 390s. I suppose the truth that everybody was astride related KTM machines was a typical thread that certain them collectively from the primary day itself.
Moments earlier than flag off, on a balmy Sunday morning, the thrill within the air was palpable. Thirty odd riders, in a convoy led by three KTM trainers, Nilesh Dhumal, Varad Extra and Sangram Patil, made their manner out of Chandigarh in the direction of Manali through Bilaspur and Mandi. It was fairly a sight to see us rolling down the freeway, help autos in tow.
I’ve at all times held the 390 Journey in excessive regard for its freeway mile-munching skills, and it delivered right here too, making for a simple day of driving.
On getting into Manali, we have been greeted by a beautiful nip within the air amidst the lap of the mountains.
THE CLIMB
As we set off to increased altitudes the next day, everybody bought right into a rhythm with their bikes. The roads resulting in Jispa, our halt for the evening, have been winding and easy, giving us an opportunity to revel within the prepared, however impartial dealing with of the 390 ADVs. The spotlight was the experience by way of the 9km lengthy Atal Tunnel. An unparalleled engineering feat, the hours of journey time that it helps you save is unbelievable.
The surroundings additionally takes a stark flip as you exit the enormous gap within the mountain. Lush inexperienced valleys, crisp blue skies and towering mountains abound, all the best way to Jispa.
Whereas we stood mesmerised by the vistas round us, the trainers determined to take issues up a notch later that night. The plan was to experience as much as Shingo La cross, to present us a style of water crossing on a motorbike. Whereas the trepidation I felt was evident on my face, I made a decision to withstand worry and float – no pun supposed!
Upon reaching the spot, I did precisely what the trainers advised me to do. Standing on the pegs, I gripped the motorbike between my legs, held the handlebar as unfastened as I’d dare and saved the throttle regular. “Lookup and forward, you’ll make it,” adviced Nilesh a.ok.a. Nelly as I entered the deep finish of the water physique. The rocks beneath have been invisible and whereas the bike did get tossed round, I maintained a gentle momentum up the incline. It was all that was required to make it to the opposite facet, with out falling. This drill actually got here in useful the following day, en route Sarchu, as we crossed the Pagal Nallah that consisted of shallow water, however heavier circulation.
THE GOING GETS TOUGH
Sarchu is notorious for being a windy and chilly place to remain at. It was right here the place Acute Mountain Illness reared its ugly head, with some folks within the group falling into its clutches. Consuming copious quantities of water and religion within the Diamox capsules we’d been popping since Manali is what bought many people by way of the seemingly lengthy and sleepless evening.
To compound issues, the following day’s experience from Sarchu to Leh was lengthy, with over 250km to cowl over myriad terrain. From talcum powder-like sand to rock strewn mud paths, the primary 30km from the Sarchu checkpost have been nerve-wracking, to say the least.
Such magnificent rock formations abound in Ladakh.
An hour later, the all-inviting tarmac of the enduring 21-hairpin Gata Loops appeared as a welcome aid. This was adopted by my favorite part of the Manali-Leh freeway. The whole stretch from Extra Plains to Leh through Tanglang La, Rumste and Upshi is a motorcyclist’s delight. It consisted of easy tarmac, tight and technical corners, and beautiful mountain faces as companions.
That is the place I used to be reminded of why motorcycling and Zen are spoken of in the identical sentence.
SHIFTING UP A GEAR
The remainder day in Leh was spent browsing by way of marketplaces and savouring the native delicacies. It was that important recharge capsule that we wanted earlier than embarking on the more durable leg of our journey.
“Bear in mind, you don’t conquer the mountains, they allow you to cross,” mentioned Varad Extra in a stern tone as we gathered to go away. It was a warning for us to respect the mountains and experience cautiously as we made our manner up Khardung La, the best mountain cross on our journey. Cresting the summit, it was all uncharted territory for me as we rolled down into the beautiful Nubra Valley.
In comparison with the remainder of Ladakh, this place has a contrasting mixture of greenery and sand dunes, with the Nubra river working alongside. The trainers considered this as the right place to pitch a high-altitude off-road coaching camp and train us to experience on sand. Discuss diving into the deep finish, eh?
Falling off the bike whereas driving on sand is inevitable however shouldn’t harm.
Not like the opposite off-road sections we’d ridden on to this point, sand was a very totally different ball sport. Firstly, there’s barely any traction because the entrance tyre retains getting deflected on hitting mounds of sand. The handlebar sways wildly backward and forward and one must let it do its factor whereas retaining the higher physique unfastened and staying on the throttle. The perfect half is that even when/while you fall, sand doesn’t harm loads. That mentioned, it was powerful and my nerves have been in every single place, as I practically fell off on a number of events. I someway managed to finish the primary stage, but it surely wasn’t sufficient to persuade the trainers to permit me to step as much as ranges two and three. That concerned deeper sand, adopted by driving up a dune. For those who did handle to attempt them out, it was an enormous studying curve. Dusting the sand off our gear, it was time to name it an evening in our cozy tents, for the following day was the one we have been all eagerly wanting ahead to.
SIACHEN WARRIORS
Being an energetic warfare zone, the Siachen Base Camp is off limits for most people. However, with particular permissions in place, we have been the fortunate few who have been granted entry to the “The best battlefield on this planet”.
No quantity of books or documentaries can provide you a way in regards to the harshness of Siachen. The path to get there’s largely desolate, with the hamlets of Sasoma Panamik and Warshi falling alongside the best way.
As we approached the hallowed gates of the bottom camp, there was delicate rainfall, exhibiting us how rapidly circumstances change within the area.
After a heat welcome by the Indian Military, we proceeded to pay our respects on the OP Baba shrine inside the bottom. Afterward, over cups of tea, the officers regaled us with tales of Siachen.
Unfurling the tricolour on the Siachen Base Camp was a proud second for everybody.
The arduous circumstances that our troopers face on the glacier is unfathomable. Firstly, they should hike as much as their posts on the glacier, which takes a couple of week from the bottom camp. Within the winters, temperatures fall under -50deg Celcius after which there’s the infinite ordeal of shifting their tents as new crevices drive relocation. All of this whereas retaining an eye fixed out for the enemy! It’s mentioned {that a} soldier who serves 3-4 months on the Siachen Glacier, loses about 7 years of his common life span. That’s the very definition of sacrifice.
It’s no marvel that on listening to this, our hearts have been full of pleasure and patriotism as we chanted “Bharat Mata ki Jai” together with our Jawans.
For the riders, it was a momentous event as they may proudly state that that they had ridden their KTM 390 Journey to the Siachen Base Camp. How’s that for bragging rights?
With a swell of feelings inside us and immense gratitude in the direction of our armed forces, it was time to go to Pangong Tso, undoubtedly some of the in style vacationer locations within the area. We took the proverbial ‘highway much less travelled’, as our gaggle of riders made its manner into the Shyok Valley and onwards to Tangste and Pangong Tso.
The azure sky paled in opposition to the deep blue and turquoise waters of the endorheic lake, leaving us mesmerised by its sheer sight. As if that wasn’t sufficient, we then set course for one more lake, after just a few hours.
THE FINALE
Saving one of the best for the final, the experience to Tso Moriri was final, each by way of the terrain and vistas. The graceful blacktop from Karu onwards allowed us to let our bikes unfastened, with the raging Indus river alongside the highway making it a surreal expertise. This coupled with the various colors of the mountains, from brown to purple, makes you assume that mom nature lavished a substantial amount of her consideration in the direction of portray this a part of the world.
The final set of kilometres to Tso Moriri are fully off-road and everybody managed to hold a good clip over these sections. As a result of, by this level, our religion within the KTM 390 Journey had grown manyfold, with no damaged rims or broken suspension to report. And we weren’t precisely nursing them within the first place!
Upon reaching Tso Moriri, Varad determined to current one final problem for us to beat. In any case, from right here onwards we might just about retrace our manner again to Chandigarh, through Tsokar and the Extra Plains.
He lined up his 390 Journey and pointed it to the summit of a hill that ignored the lake. First gear engaged, traction management turned off, he made a splash to the highest. We adopted swimsuit, placing all the off-road coaching to apply, and took our bikes to the place he’d parked.
The Tso Moriri seems to be extremely attractive, particularly from the summit of a hill that we rode as much as on our KTM 390 Journey.
Atop that chilly and windy hill, the sight of the Tso Moriri left us spellbound. Comparatively untouched by the evils of tourism, its waters have been pristine whereas the enchanting, snow-capped mountains glistened within the setting solar. We have been presumably the one motorcycle-borne riders to have made it as much as this viewpoint. That’s when American actor Danny Kaye’s phrases struck me, “To journey is to take a journey into your self”.
This journey to Ladakh has been nothing wanting a revelation for me and a number of other others. Did I grow to be an off-road specialist within the two weeks that I spent right here? Not likely. However sure, I used to be glad that I may let go of my worry of driving off-road and have an journey of a lifetime.
Extra importantly, I had the pleasure of experiencing this on a hardy and succesful journey motorbike, with like-minded individuals who’d cast indelible bonds over 2,590kms. The camaraderie we shared, the experiences we underwent and the phrases of encouragement that flew each time one felt slowed down by the difficult terrain. It was all that made this journey unforgettable. Come to consider it, I’m so glad I mentioned sure on that cellphone name.
Pictures: Abhishek Raina, Parvez Ahmed, Rishabh Bhaskar